Welcome back my friends! Today, I’m sharing a fabric review of Mood’s Italian top-weight viscose denim fabric, and a pattern review of the New Look 6394 button down shirt. This fabric was sponsored to me by Mood Fabrics in exchange for an honest blog post and review. Currently, I’m still apart of the Mood Sewing Network and I’m using a few of their fabulous fabrics to make a few wardrobe staples. Click the badge below if you are unaware of this fabulous online fabric store. Also, don’t forget that Mood Fabrics has generously offered my followers 10% off their purchase. Just use the code MSNTEA at checkout!

Moods’ Italian Blue Viscose Denim Twill

To begin, I’ll share my review and thoughts on Mood’s Italian blue top-weight viscose denim twill. Mostly, I’ve been on the edge of my seat waiting for an opportunity to make a button down denim top. So when I found this fabric on Mood Fabric’s website I jumped out of my chair and did a little dance. I was excited to see this beautiful drapey denim fabric on Mood’s website, and I was even more excited that I had an opportunity to work with this fabric.

As indicated by its name, this top-weight viscose denim twill is ideal for semi-loose fitting tops, dresses, and trousers. This fabric is light weight with a soft hand and fluid drape. Mostly, I selected this fabric to make a button down denim top. My wardrobe is seriously lacking a few staples, and a button down denim shirt was one of them. Denim button down shirts are staples in every American girl’s wardrobe, right? I love the versatility of button down denim shirts, and they are always trending.

This non-stretch medium blue denim has a slight sheen, which adds to the fabric’s luster. The fiber contents consists of 100% viscose; therefore, anything that is made with this fabric will have a nice fluid drape. However, the fabric is stable enough to make a nice tailored shirt as well.

As you can see from the images, the shirt that I made using the New Look 6394 is a slightly tailored garment. When buttoned, the shirt appears to be more tailored than when it’s opened. The care instructions for this fabric suggest that you dry clean, hand or machine wash on a delicate cycle in cool water. I machine washed this fabric on a delicate cycle in cool water, and as you can see the color of the fabric is still top-notch.

From the date of this blog post there is 72 yards of this fabric left on the Mood Fabrics’ website. So, head over and buy a swatch or a yard or two of this fabric before it runs out. You can purchase this fabric here.

New Look 6394 Pattern Review

Now, let’s talk more about the pattern I used to make this garment. As I mentioned above, a classic button down denim shirt is not only trendy but it’s also versatile. I created two looks with this shirt. First I paired this top with a pair of blue jeans; then I paired it with a pleated skirt made from an eyelet shirting fabric that I bought from Joann Fabrics. The skirt was made with New Look N6605 last summer.

The New Look 6394 pattern consists of a semi-fitted buttoned down shirt pattern with five variations. As you can see, there are sleeve and neckline variations. These consists of a shirt with a wing collar (views A, B, and C) and stand up collar (views D, E). There is also an option where you can make vents on the left and right side seams. The vents are approximately 4-5 inches in length. In addition, views B and D have three-quarter sleeve options with sleeve tabs. I made view B. However, I omitted the pockets.

This pattern is categorized as an easy pattern for advanced beginners. However, I would caution individuals who have never tried to make button holes. This pattern calls for 8- 5/8″ buttons. 6 buttons will be placed down the center front of the garment; the remaining two buttons will be placed on the sleeves.

Finally, this pattern has 16 given pieces. However, I used 9 pieces to complete this project. The fabric suggestions that are listed on the back of the envelope are cotton and cotton blends, voile, chambray, silky types, and linen and linen blends.

Alterations and Adjustments

I made quite a few alterations and adjustments to this pattern to get the fit I wanted. To start, I did a 1″ bicep adjustment to the sleeve. This is an adjustment that I always have to make when working with commercial patterns. So, this was no surprise to me. In addition, I found the sleeve to be a bit to short for me. So, I lengthened the sleeve by an inch as well. The last adjustment that I had to make to the sleeve is a shoulder width adjustment. During the mockup and fitting stage of the process, I found that the sleeve head dropped over my shoulder line. This was an easy adjustment because it only needed to be raised by a quarter of an inch.

For the body of the garment, I shortened the garment by 5/8″ near the high bust area because there was too much fabric there. However, I needed that 5/8″ for the length of the garment. So, I added 5/8″ back to the pattern one inch below the waist. I didn’t want to add length to or near the waist line that’s why I added the 5/8″ back to the pattern below the waistline. And that’s it! Those are all the alterations and adjustments that I’ve made to this pattern.

Although I love the pattern and would most likely make it again, there are a few changes that I would make before I do so. I would definitely color match my thread next time. Unfortunately, I used a white thread because I didn’t feel like switch my serger threads. This was a mistake! If you look closely at the garment you can see the white threads. It almost looks like the stitches are popping. Hmmm… I think a navy blue thread would have been more favorable. Speaking of serger threads… the fabric that I used for this project frayed quite a bit. You will need to use a serger for your project if you buy this fabric. I hardly think a zigzag stitch would hold the threads in place.

Lastly, I would omit using the back neck facing and instead use the upper collar to enclose the raw edge of the back neckline. I have found that the back facing for this pattern is not sized correctly for the project; it is uncomfortable and does not lay flat. I would also add about another inch to my bicep adjustment for a better fit. Once I make those changes, I would love to make this pattern again. It was a simple and easy project and I definitely recommend it to anyone who is looking for a classic button down shirt. I hope this review was helpful. Please comment and let me know your thoughts. Until next time my friends, stay creative!

–Tea